Aggressive vendors were our first impression of the crater site. They would sell you anything: polished lava rocks, ninja dolls, rabbit-skin bags & hats, the shirts off their backs practically. Unwilling to risk the loss of a potential sale, no fewer than 7 vendors followed us along a 2km trek along the ridge of the volcano to the caves & sacred water (spring water) source. They were good guides & interesting conversation.

They make this hike with tourists up to 2 times a day, rotating among 500 villagers. There are no factories or other employment up here, so- according to them, by default- all men become de facto tourism hawkers. Business has been slow for several years now. It’s easily seen through the thinly veiled desperation in their eyes.

There are 7 craters up here, several still kicking out noxious sulpher smells. The last major eruption was in 1969, according to our impromptu “guides”.