Monday, November 06, 2006

Tuesday, 24Oct06

Highlights: last day of sahur & fasting! Idul Fitri party in the streets around town & giving rice to the poor, meeting the cousins.

Today marks the last time we have to wake up at 3am and fast all day! Woo-hoo! (=

Funny- but one thing I’ll miss about the fasting month is… few things endear a person in the hearts of people I meet here faster than the small effort I made to follow & try to understand their religious tradition. They really appreciated that,,, and so in turn did I.

Interesting note: there are two principal social / political organizations representing mainstream Islam in Indonesia: Muhammadiyah and Nahdlatul Ulama.

Muhammadiyah was founded in 1912 with an aim of purifying Islamic practices from innovation & superstition, as advocated by an Egyptian named Muhammad Abduh (d. 1905). It was thought that by placing Islam as a fundamental reference for various problems, Muslims would be able to respond to demands of the modern world. Muhammadiyah claims 25-30 million members in Indonesia, mainly from urban commercial communities and the higher educated. (Husein, 32)

Nahdlhatul Ulama (NU) was founded in 1926 in response to Muhammadiyah to defend their religious beliefs, which have blended with Javanese traditions over centuries. NU estimates its membership around 35 million, drawing mainly from rural areas in East and Central Java. (Husein, 33)

My latest book, which I’m sourcing from, is a very interesting read: Muslim-Christian Relations in the New Order Indonesia: The Exclusivist and Inclusivist Muslim’s Perspectives, by Fatimah Husein, Bandung, 2005.

Muhammadiyah is celebrating their Idul Fitri today. We’re waiting until tomorrow, as are most NU Muslims. Something about differing ways of reading the lunar calendar I think.

After dinner, Nina and I fulfilled another Muslim tradition and requirement… giving to the poor (alms). Here, rice is a popular gift. We picked up two 10lb bags of rice and thought for a minute who to drop by & give it to. Mosques are often receiving points… but we can always cut out the middle man here. Nina’s grandmother’s aunt is still alive and kickin (= Although she is blind, and in her 90’s, she still had a beaming smile for us when she heard Nina’s voice. 100% Javanese,,, she’s worn a sarong & kebaya everyday of her life, and from the wrinkles in the skin of her hands- she’s worked hard. Her home is simple,, like a suburban version of what you might find in Little House on the Prarie. Poverty hasn’t robbed her of joy in her life - it’s written in the lines of her face.

Recipient #2 was an elderly becak driver (3-wheeled bicycle that can be found everywhere here). There are a lot of men who spend their days under the sun on a bicycle, ready to jump up at a moments notice & carry Javanese folks across town to wherever they’re going. I know they don’t make much. His warm smile was all the appreciation we needed.

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